Colosseum & S.East Rome Guide 

Around Termini Station

Piazza Esquilino	Santa Maria Maggiore	Santa Maria Maggiore	Piazza Vitt. Emanuele II

The area between Termini station and the Colosseum was one (in fact the highest) of Rome's seven hills the "Esquilino" the square of the same name Piazza Esquilino was constructed in 1600 with on its north side an obelisk erected in 1587 but reputedly originally from the Mausoleum of Augustus. In the centre of the piazza is the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, originally commissioned by Pope Liberio and a wealthy patriarch Giovanni Patrizio who both had a visitation from the Virgin Mary, where its position was marked by a miraculous snow fall (and why it is sometimes known as "Santa Maria della Neve") on August 5th 356AD. Every year the Pope holds a service here to commemorate this event. However the origins of the Basilica are mid 5th century with original features including mosaics and an arch dating back to the pontificate of Pope Sixtus III (432-440). Damaged by an earthquake in 1348 it was subsequently rebuilt and remodeled in the following centuries. It has two main chapels the "Cappella Paolina" (1613) where there is an icon of the Virgin Mary: "Salus Populi Romani" (reputedly carried by successive Pope's to ward off firstly the plague (593AD) and subsequently cholera (1837)) and another which shares its name (but not ceiling!) with the Vatican's Sistine Chapel (1585).

Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II is an unimposing open grassed area created in the 1870's on the site of the ancient Roman food market.In the center are the remains of an ancient fountain the "Trofei di Mario".

South & Basilica di San Giovanni

Porta Maggiore	Basilica di San Giovanni	Santi Giovanni e Paolo

South East lies the Porta Maggiore built (AD52) by the Emperor Claudius at the meeting point of two important roads from ancient Rome (Via Praeneste and Via Labicana)and two aqueducts; Anio Novus and Aqua Claudia built in the mid 1st century. Adjoining is the tomb of Eurysaces a Roman master baker and his wife. It is still a busy intersection and aesthetically doesn't quite do credit to its historical importance. Heading south west down Viale Carlo Felice you will then find discover the imposing Baroque facade (1735) of the Basilica di San Giovanni. This was the site of the first Christian basilica in Rome (4th century) and is Rome's "official" cathedral and seat of the Bishop of Rome (in this case the Pope!). It has suffered from earthquakes and two fires and rebuilt and extended over the centuries. It has many architectural features; its brass doors were from the "Curia" (Senate) in the "Roman Forum". Adjoining are the remaining buildings of the Palazzo Laterano, the home of the Pope until the mid 14th century (then transferred to Avignon before returning to Rome and the "Vatican"). The Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo (AD398) was named after and is the resting place for two Roman soldiers martyred there in AD362 in a private house used by persecuted Christians for worship (domus ecclesiae). The original church was damaged during the sack of Rome in AD410, an earthquake in AD442 and again sacked in 1084. Over the centuries it was restored and rebuilt right up until the 1950's.

The Colosseum

San Gregorio Magno al Celio	Inner Courtyard	Arch of Constantine	Colosseum

San Gregorio Magno al Celio stands in an elevated position on the "Caelian Hill" opposite the Palatine. The present building (1629-33) was built on the site of a 6th century monastery established by Pope Gregory I. Passing through its facade you enter an inner courtyard with the Basilica at the far end and three early 17th century oratories to your left. Heading now towards the "Colosseum" you pass through the Arch of Constantine on Via Triumphalis, a route taken by victorious emperors and itself built to commemorate Constantine I's victory over Maxentius in AD312. In fact it incorporates elements from older monuments, "recycling" isn't a new invention!

The Colosseum we weren't able to photograph inside when we visited but this video will give you some idea of the scale and the generally very informative guides do a great job of transferring you back to the land of Christians, lions and gladiators!